HOW TO BOOST HELLEBORE LONGEVITY
After the flowers appear, there are three stages to the hellebore and each require different conditioning techniques, to achieve superb longevity and vase life for cut stems. These three stages and techniques are summarised below:
1.YOUNG FLOWERS
When the flowers have opened and stamens are still on all flowers (before they have been fertilised) they are at their most delicate. However, you can still gain good cut longevity with this technique:
SCORING - using a small, clean, sharp knife, score a 1-2mm deep slit up the side of the whole stem. Plunge the stem into cool water for 24hrs, ensuring the water is deep enough to cover the entirety of the long slit.
REASON - compared to one single cut at the base of the stem, you have dramatically increased the open surface area, which allows the plant to drink significantly more water, helping its rigidity over a longer period of time.
2.AFTER STAMENS HAVE DROPPED
When one flower on each stem (it need not be every flower) has dropped its stamens, this means it has been fertilised and the stem will remain more robust once cut.
SEARING - quicker than searing, simply cut the end of the stem on a clear angle and place into just boiled water for 15 -20 seconds. The stem will blacken. Plunge into cool water for a few hours, after which they become rigid and robust.
REASON - the searing quickly forces water up the stem, displacing air bubbles, which helps the water to reach the full length of the stem and up to the flower head.
3.MATURE FLOWERS
Once all the flower heads have dropped their stamens, central seed pods have formed and the stems are visibly rigid.
CLASSIC CONDITIONING - at this stage, the flower is very sturdy and robust, and it simply needs to be conditioned in the most basic way - simply using scissors, cut the end of the stem on an angle (the angle, compared to a straight cut, increases the surface area), and place into tepid water for a few hours.
REASON - older stems have more lignin in their cell walls. Lignin is nature’s natural stiffener and strengthener - for example, woody branches have a huge amount of lignin. The more natural lignin, the longer the stems will usually last once cut.
THREE CONDITIONING METHODS IN DETAIL
SCORING (FOR YOUNG FLOWERS)
Strip lower leaves from the base of the stem. Excess leaves take water away from the top of the stem (where we want to ensure it reaches) and excess leaves in the water increases bacteria levels, which quickly accelerates wilting flowers.
Using a small, clean, sharp knife, score a very fine 1-2mm deep slit, up the side of the whole stem, from the base to just below the flower head.
Plunge the stem into cool water for 24hrs, ensuring the water is deep enough to cover the entirety of the long slit. Thereafter, use the stem as normal within your designs (without needing to continue covering the full slit with water).
SEARING (ONCE THE STAMENS HAVE DROPPED)
Strip lower leaves from the base of the stem. Excess leaves take water away from the top of the stem (where we want to ensure it reaches) and excess leaves in the water increases bacteria levels, which quickly accelerates wilting flowers.
Using a small, clean, sharp knife, score a very fine 1-2mm deep slit, up the side of the whole stem, from the base to just below the flower head.
Plunge the stem into cool water for 24hrs, ensuring the water is deep enough to cover the entirety of the long slit. Thereafter, use the stem as normal within your designs (without needing to continue covering the full slit with water).
CLASSIC CONDITIONING (FOR MATURE FLOWERS)
Strip lower leaves as before. Using sharp, clean scissors, cut the 1cm of the base of the stem at an angle. The angle increases the surface area and helps encourage greater water absorption.
Ensure your containers are completely clean - as clean as any glass you would use to drink from. Let the stems rest for a few hours/overnight, in a cool dark place.
UNDERSTANDING THE STAMENS & SEEDPOD
IN THIS IMAGE, THE FLOWER STILL HAS ITS STAMENS - IT HAS NOT BE FERTILIZED.
THE STAMENS HERE HAVE DROPPED, AND THE SEED POD HAS DEVELOPED.
CARING FOR HELLEBORE PLANTS
Tips for looking after and buying Hellebores as plants, to be used later as cut flowers.
All Hellebore plants like the soil moist, preferring dappled shade, exactly as they would find in the native habitats on the edge of woodlands.
Look for plants that are in full bloom in their pots. This way you can see first-hand how tall the flower stems are and if their heads face down or up. You are looking for flower heads ideally that face down. Being a winter flower, their downward facing heads protect the inner flower from the elements and offer cover to protect their pollen and the few visiting bees and insects that brave the winter months.
A flower that has dropped its stamens will last longer. For the best longevity, wait to cut until the flower heads until after this has happened.
HOW TO SELECT CUT STEMS
Buying flowers from a market or from a florist, unless you know they have been conditioned using the specific methods above, to ensure the best longevity, simply select only those that look beautiful, have visibly dropped their stamens and with a developed seedpod (see comparison images above).
Remembering that the more developed the seedpod and older the flower, when it was cut, the sturdier the hellebore will be. Older stems have more lignin in their cell walls. Lignin is nature’s natural stiffener and strengthener, for example, woody branches have a huge amount of lignin. The more natural lignin, the longer the stems will last once cut.
A mature Hellebore will hold up beautifully out of water,, making them great for seasonal button holes/boutonnieres and hair flowers.
FOR INSPRATION AND MORE TIPS ON ARRANGING SEASONAL FLOWERS GO TO https://www.philippacraddock.com/about